If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast. — Ernest Hemingway
The first time I saw Paris, I was 16 years old, and it was love at first sight. Nothing could spoil the magic – not even that my wallet was stolen. [Fun fact: it arrived via mail to my address at prep school about a year later.]
I’ve visited many times since then, including a semester in college, and fell a little bit more in love each time. On my most recent trip in December 2019, my travelling companion was my then 19-year old kid, and I loved sharing my favorite places as well as discovering new ones with them. In my next series of posts, I will share some of my favorite things about the City of Light, starting with when to go, where to stay and what to eat.
WHEN TO GO:
Notwithstanding the song, April is not the best month to visit Paris. May is a much better month. The composer of the song agreed: “Ah, well,” explained the composer (Vernon Duke) apologetically. “We really meant May, but the rhythm required two syllables.” My favorite times though are September and late December. Paris is beautiful in the fall, although the city will be more crowded than in the winter. The weather in the early winter is much better than you’d expect, and there are far fewer tourists than at other times of the year.
WHERE TO STAY:
The 6th Arrondissement is centrally located and you can find reasonably priced options. On this last visit, we stayed at Hôtel du Dragon. Family owned, rooms are a decent size, with ensuite bathrooms. A nice continental breakfast is available.
WHERE TO EAT:
We had a number of good meals, and I don’t think I’ve ever had a truly bad meal in Paris, but two were outstanding. I would return on my next visit to Paris without hesitation.
A recommendation from a friend, Chez Fernand is worth going out of your way for. The boeuf bourguignon is outstanding, and my starter, a delightful pâté, hit all the right notes. In the 6th Arr. metro Mabillon (ligne 10) or St German des prés or Saint-Sulpice (ligne 4)
Breizh Café was a nostalgic choice. I spent my junior year in high school on a study abroad program in Rennes, the capital of Brittany, and developed a taste for the regional specialty, galettes au sarrasin, a savory crêpe made from buckwheat flour.We went to the one in le Marais but there are locations throughout Paris.
Instead of lunch one day during your visit, I highly recommend a food tour with Original Food Tours. We did the Taste of Saint Germain and I’ve had first-hand reports that the Marais tour is also superb. We lucked out and were the only 2 on our tour, so had a very personalized experience. If you go, I hope you are lucky enough to get our guide, Nicolas Ferrand.
Pâtisseries and boulangeries are on every corner. For the best bread and chausson-aux-pommes (apple turnovers), visit Poilâne. Original location 8 rue du cherche midi, Saint Germain des Prés. Other locations throughout Paris. With regard to fancy pastries, you are bound to find something to your taste. My favorites are Gateau Paris-Brest (pictured) and Millefeuille (but with powdered sugar on top, not icing).
NIGHTLIFE:
To be honest, I prefer a late, leisurely dinner and then back to the hotel so I can get an early start in the morning, but when in Paris, you should experience one of the cabarets. Le Crazy Horse is more centrally located but if you are staying in Montmartre, the obvious choice is Le Moulin Rouge. Adults only. No need to speak French to enjoy le spectacle at either.
GETTING AROUND:
We did the hop on/off bus on our last visit because the métro was on strike; it came with our Paris Visite pass and it saved us a couple Ubers. If the métro is NOT on strike when you go, don’t bother. You can get pretty much everywhere you need to go on public transportation, and a métro/train pass is also included with Paris Visite. You of course can buy your tickets as you need them, but I find it more convenient to have a multi-day pass.
In my next post, I’ll share the 5 museums you shouldn’t miss.
