Mary Cardwell - Snapshot Chronicles Roadtrip

Signs of the West

July 10, 2009 by Mary Cardwell

As our journey continued West, I started to think about all the different ways I could tell we were far away from home

Can't escape

(but there are always a few things that stay the same). The most obvious differences were the landscape. Rolling fields that seemed to go on forever. Cattle and horses were blessed with hundreds of acres to roam and graze. We laughed every time we saw that one anti-social cow just standing hundreds of yards from the other cows and staring into space. What on earth could they be thinking about?

Scenes from Montana

Behind the fields were miles and miles of mountains, some with snow caps visible 150 miles away, others lined with trees that touched the sky. The scenery was majestic.

I had sort of expected those signs of the west but the ones that took me by surprise were a little closer to home. First sign that took me back just a bit was when Dennis started to play country music…and I didn’t object. Typically I would have been tempted to throw something at the radio to make the country twang stop but it actually sounded natural to me. It seemed right. But the sign that really stopped me in my tracks was when I realized I threw out any sense of fashion and color coordination and traded them for comfort and warmth. Sorry I don’t have a picture for you but how’s this image – bright orange tank top with olive green fleece, black sweatpants and brown flip flops. Don’t forget the unkept hair in a ponytail. What happened to me? Who was this person? I’ll tell you who – a very happy and relaxed traveler whose priorities were in the right place!

The most important signs of the West however centered on the Native American Indians. Towns named after tribes that live in and around the area. There were signs for Indian reservations that have been here for hundreds of years. The history and culture of our country’s original inhabitants should be treated with the utmost respect for it was their ancestors who shaped the earliest stories of our nation’s past.

Battlefield Marker

As we drove past Crow Agency, an Indian Reservation of the Crow tribe, we noticed the sign for the Battle of Little Bighorn battlefield. It was an unplanned stop but I insisted we’d only stop for 5 minutes and get right back on the road. More than thirty minutes later, we drove away with a refreshed interest in our country’s quest to capture the west.

As you pulled into the parking lot, there were hundreds and hundreds of white markers of soldiers who died in the battle. Some had names and ranks of these loyal men but many were nameless markers of those who never made it home. A short walk up the hill, you can overlook the actual battlefield littered with markers of men on the spots they had fallen.

Custer's Marker

It was easy to spot the marker of General Custer. The face of the marker was shaded black to make it distinctive from the others. Unlike many of the soldiers, Custer’s body was moved to Arlington Cemetery in Washington DC several years back.

My favorite part of the memorial, however, was the story of the American Indians that defeated Custer and his troops. The memorial was careful not to label the good guy and the bad guy.

Art sculpture of the battle

Many historians believe Custer’s fatal decision to engage in battle was careless and unnecessary. Others portray him as a great leader. Whichever side of the fence you fall on, this memorial stays focused on facts and images that make you pause and think. A must stop for anyone in the area.

As we drove away from the battlefield we had a new perspective on the land we traveled to our campground in Fort Smith Montana which was so small Betty the GPS didn’t know it existed. When we finally crossed into town lines, the signs proudly told us “Fort Smith, population 311”. Our campsite was alongside the Bighorn River, beautiful yet buggy. The owners were so kind, giving us tips on how to enjoy our short time in the area.

Luke and friends

Cam's unexpected shower

The boys made four new friends, black labs who wore the boys out playing fetch and jumping into the river. So, as the sun set in the west, we made plans to visit Bighorn National Recreation Area in the morning. To see our entire photo album, visit Snapfish for Battle of Little Bighorn and Camping in Montana

Taking Advice

July 10, 2009 by Mary Cardwell

For better or worse we told everyone about our cross country trip. Part of the reason was because we were in disbelief that we were actually going and the other part was to learn from others who have taken these roads before us. Some of the advice was useful like don’t forget to wear rubber gloves at the dumping stations.

Cam taking in the Badlands

Some advice was obvious like remember to pack extra socks. But some advice just enhanced our trip beyond our expectations.

We told folks we were visiting Mount Rushmore as part of our trip and many trusted friends and family told us to visit Crazy Horse monument as well as the Badlands while in the area. So now I tell you, if you ever visit Mount Rushmore make sure to take the time to visit Crazy Horse and the Badlands. You won’t be disappointed.

Crazy Horse Monument

We were less than motivated our second morning in Keystone. We were still in a wee bit of a fog from the Independence Day celebration but Dennis and I weren’t content to sit around and relax. Why should we relax? We’re on vacation and there are way too many businesses ready to take our money. We opted to take our time and stay local. Our first decision was to visit Custer State Forest but uncharacteristically, Betty the GPS, gave us a bum steer and we missed the turn. Being the dedicated travelers we are, we said screw it and decided to go straight to Crazy Horse instead.

For those as ignorant as I, Crazy Horse was an Indian Chief who fought and defeated Custer in the Battle of Little Bighorn. About 60 years ago, the Lakota Indians commissioned a tribute to him and all Native Americans in the form of a mountain carving that makes Mount Rushmore look small in comparison. The carving is of the Indian Chief on his horse pointing to “the land of his people.”

Finished Model

It was spectacular but unfinished. Due to lack of funding, Crazy Horse the monument probably won’t be finished in my lifetime but there was still so much to see and learn it’s worth the 20 minute drive from Keystone.

The visit starts with a brief and very interesting movie about the history of Crazy Horse and the monument. At the risk of embarrassing myself, I’m going to be honest, I didn’t actually watch the movie but Dennis and the boys thought it was terrific. I was finally coming off my 3 day stress high and just crashed. Yes, I fell asleep the second the lights dimmed. It gets worse. My nap consisted of several head bobs with my mouth wide open. I’m certain drool only moments away. Dennis was quick to nudge me before the snoring started to disturb the other guests.

Hand beaded Mask

At least I was well rested to see all the beautiful handmade Indian artifacts and learn more about their history.

The next day, we knew we had a fair amount of driving in front of us to get to our campground in Fort Smith, Montana but we had yet to make time for the Badlands. Several people told us not to miss Badlands but it was 2 hours in the wrong direction. I wanted to go to North Dakota and Dennis wanted to stop at Deadwood but we traded in those 5 hours and backtrack to Badlands National Park. I’m so glad we did, it was incredible.

Knowing time was limited, we opted to take the scenic drive rather than park and hike. I didn’t know what to expect because everyone just told us “You have to see it”.

Mountain Goat

I think we were only in the gate 5 minutes when we pulled over to mingle with the Mountain Goat on the side of the road. Part of me wanted to pet them but I kind of knew they’d literally kick my ass if I went too close so I used the zoom on my camera instead. Once we looked past the Mountain Goat, we were stunned by the massive and intricate natural canyons and rock formations. As we continued our 45 minute drive through the park, every turn offered a different and unique sculpture and geological miracle.

I can’t even being to describe the incredible views we experienced.

View from the road

Red clay rocks were layered with sandstone offering beautiful contrasts in the distance. Some areas were rich with vegetation while others could have been confused with the surface of the moon, lifeless craters and nothing green in sight. Parts of the Badlands are known for their prehistoric roots. Fossils and other findings from millions of years ago make this area a treasure for geologist and geeky kids alike.

Oooo! Scary!

I’m sorry I didn’t get to see North Dakota but I can’t imagine it could have topped our visit to the Badlands. So take my advice, follow the advice of those you trust and you won’t be disappointed. To see our complete photo album, visit Snapfish for Crazy Horse and The Badlands

Where Did George Go?

July 6, 2009 by Mary Cardwell

Our story to get to Mount Rushmore was not quite the American dream I had pictured in my head but I was so proud of myself and my family for rising above the challenges and enjoying our time together. Thanks to our newest family member, Betty the GPS, we knew our latest destination was only a half a mile away.

Downtown Keystone SD

After long stretches of flat highway behind us, we were all pleasantly surprised to see a bustling downtown Keystone at the bottom of Route 16A, only a couple miles from our campsite as well as the world famous tribute to our Presidents.

Before you were even able to get to the mountain carvings, you had to pass through this tourist community that was a combination of the Hampton Beach boardwalk and an old Western mining town. Keystone offered a strange combination of charm, history and tourist magnets all rolled into one. You could take an old fashion steam train through the mountains or grab a cold beer and buffalo burger in a sidewalk café dressed to look like a saloon. Right around the corner were helicopter rides that offered breath-taking views of the Black Hills. My boys could not resist the Alpine Slide that took them high into the mountains only to zoom down, celebrating their youth at every turn.

Even with all that excitement, the main attraction is Borglum’s tribute to our country’s leaders. Leaving Keystone, you travel up Mt Rushmore for about 2.5 miles before you get your first glimpse of George and Abe. Wow.

George and Abe Chillin'

Cars were pulling over to capture this spectacular work of art from every angle. It was just breathe taking. Due to the Independence Day celebrations, the streets were lined with cars – you know the people who were smart enough to get there early. Our plan was to be one of those smart people but it was more important that Dennis got a few minutes sleep to ensure he stay awake for the real celebration.

We headed up the mountain around 3 pm and quickly discovered we were about 3 hours too late to get a spot close to the top, however it didn’t matter, we were there. We packed our best intentions along with good attitudes, rain gear, travel games and chairs and started our climb to the top. About one mile into our uphill journey, we dumped our best intentions to lighten the load. Another mile later, our good attitudes were replaced by sheer determination. “We drove 2000 miles to see the fireworks and I’ll be damned if a little walk is going to stop me now!” I heard myself repeat again and again. Dennis worked hard at keeping Luke motivated. “It’s just around the corner” he told him, “keep going, pal, we’re almost there.” By the 10^th corner and no end in sight, Dennis lost his credibility but gained a great punch line to keep us amused the rest of the walk.

At the entrance of the Monument, we were greeted by thousands of people from around the globe who shared a common fashion trend of trash bags and plastic ponchos. Every good seat from the center point of view was taken. I love my family deeply but somewhere up that hill, we transformed into the family you dread will sit near you…you know the one with the loud bickering kids, the obsessive mother trying to find the perfect spot moving every two minutes and the father whose patience had reached its breaking point.

Finally settled and happy

We squeezed our chairs into the middle of the crowd. The boys were happy, they could see everything. Me, not so much so my quest continued. I found a nice spot on the side of a trail and much to my children’s’ and husband’s dismay, we moved. Twice.

After getting settled in, the sun came out, people were happy. It was going to be great. I even called my parents to let them know we suffered but it was worth every minute. I could look up at the trees and see George looking down on me with a smile. Happy 4^th, George! Then, that black cloud of bad luck that hit us in NY somehow followed us to South Dakota. The clouds rolled in, followed by heavy fog. George, Abe and the boys started to fade. Within a half hour, the temperature dropped about 20 degrees. I’m not sure if they just got cold but George and his friends disappeared. The fog was so think you couldn’t even see the mountainside. It was only 50 feet away an hour ago but now it’s gone. George, where did you go? What about my fireworks?

The fog rolls in

George and friends have left the building...

As the launch time drew near, the organizers made a bold decision to launch them regardless of the weather conditions. The noises were awe inspiring. The sky changed beautiful shades of red and blues as the bangs and pops and booms continued.

"the rockets red glare..."

Every now and then you could make out the tip of a burst but all in all, the display was a bust. I’m not sure if it was a tragedy or a comedy but either way I couldn’t help but grin ear to ear throughout the entire event. I loved every minute of it, knowing this experience will be with me and my family for the rest of our lives. Sure, real fireworks would have been better but nothing could top the experience we shared.

As we began our 3 mile journey back down the hill, the stars began to make an appearance as the clouds slowly disappeared. Maybe if they waited a ½ hour we would have seen a different show but in my mind it was the best July 4^th celebration ever!

TIPS:

Believe the reviews. Any major fireworks display draws massive crowds. Get their early and bring snacks, drinks and your patience.
Be prepared to wait long periods of time both before and after the fireworks.
Be flexible and don’t forget the real reason for the celebration. Hug the next Serviceman or woman you see and say THANK YOU for your freedom.

The Things we do for Love

July 6, 2009 by Mary Cardwell

Like most parents, we would do (almost) anything for our kids. We want them to have a happy childhood so we don’t have to spend all that money on their therapy after college when they are living at home because they can’t find a job. I know, it’s really because we love them but don’t underestimate the opportunity to relive our childhoods through their eyes. There are few things in the world that make a child’s eyes light up quite like fireworks on the Fourth of July. So how does an over-achieving parent take that up a notch? By going Mount Rushmore for the country’s most spectacular display.

Open roads of Iowa

Since we were a couple days behind schedule, our options were few – drive, sleep and drive again and run the risk of missing the fireworks or drive, drive and drive some more to get to Keystone South Dakota by the morning of July 3. I’m not sure which side of crazy we fall but we decided to drive straight through. So after a sad goodbye to our friends, we headed out for a long couple days of driving.

Driving an RV certainly worked to our advantage. The plan was for Dennis and I to take turns behind the wheel while the other one caught a couple hours of sleep in the back. Sounds easy, right? Being the gentleman that he is, Dennis insisted that he stay behind the wheel while I took the first nap. After being tossed around like a lightweight, my head was racing wondering what time it was and is he okay. I rested for about an hour which, in the end, was about 30 minutes longer than Dennis.

The End

The Beginning

: The Middle

It wasn’t all bad. We almost felt young and energetic again…almost. We saw a beautiful sunset somewhere west of Dubuque Iowa and the sun rise in Sioux Falls Nebraska. I’m not sure what we missed along the way in terms of scenery but the roads were straight and littered with 18 wheelers delivering their goods. By noon the next day, we arrived in Keystone South Dakota in time for the fireworks and ready to begin our vacation for a second time.

Sunset in Iowa

Lucas “Do-dah”

July 2, 2009 by Mary Cardwell

After a rather sleepless stop over in Rochester NY, we decided to pull up our bootstraps, buckle down the hatches and head to our friends in Sullivan OH, an hour southwest of Cleveland. At the time, we had no idea just how smart of a decision this was. Due to technical difficulties, our visit was extended by a couple days but thanks to Cindi and Bill, nothing dampened our vacation spirit!

Dennis drove all the way from MA to OH, so when he asked me to take over the wheel somewhere west of the OH border, I gladly obliged. Most of the roads to this point were long, long stretches of straight highway with little traffic so as a novice RV’er I figured even I could do this. Little did he know (…or did he?…) we were only about 15 miles outside the Cleveland city limits. After hours of silence, Betty (we named our GPS) starts screaming at me to prepare for a left exit, then a right exit, then a keep on the current road followed by a highway change. We went from 2 lanes to 4 lanes down to 3 lanes – traffic entering from every direction! I’m still not sure the real reason for Dennis’s sinister laugh – maybe he was nervous for me? Maybe because my knuckles were the same shade of white as my grandmother’s hair? Maybe it was my colorful commentary about each vehicle that came within 200 feet of us? Or maybe it was his relief that I was behind the wheel and not him?

Ohio Amish

Either way, we made it to Sullivan without a scratch and a promise that I’ll never have to do that again!

Central Ohio was more beautiful than I expected. Acres upon acres of rolling corn fields and dairy farms intertwined with Amish farms. It wasn’t uncommon to see horse and buggie traveling past the house. We decided to take a drive to Akron and see the Cleveland Indians AAA team, the Akron Areos. For sports fans, I highly recommend minor league ball games. The cost is a fraction of major league games, parking is a breeze and the crowds are minimal. The kids were jazzed that we were only 6 rows behind home plate.

Winning smiles

There were enough open seats that the adults scooted back a couple rows to spread out and give the kids some much appreciated independence. We were close enough, however, to hear the laughter when the announced the first batter for the opposing team…”Now batting, number 34, Lucas Duda” and Luke’s new nickname “Do-dah!” was born.

Future Inductees

The next day, we took the opportunity to head to the big city. This time Dennis drove and we were both mentally prepared. We set the GPS to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in Downtown Cleveland. I visited the Rock Hall last time I came to see Cindi and I was very excited for the kids to see everything. It did not disappoint. Cam loved Bon Jovi’s motorcycle and Dennis and Luke bonded over the stage props from Pink Floyd’s The Wall.

Anything to make Mom happy

For our last full day in OH, we decided to take in the local sights. Passing through a small portion of Amish country, we visited an old fashion cheese barn and candy store. Luke said he was so excited he felt like a kid in a candy store, literally! I couldn’t resist the blueberry cheesecake fudge. Yum! Dennis got a real chuckle out of the local version of the washer toss gamed called “corn hole board.” He may have even bought one if it wasn’t $75!

Next stop is Mount Rushmore for the July 4th Celebrations. If the moon and stars align, we should be there in plenty of time to see the country’s largest fireworks display Friday night. Internet access may be limited but we’ll get something posted as quickly as possible.

Thanks again Cindi, Bill, Maddie and Zack. We loved every minute of our visit and can’t thank you enough for being such wonderful hosts!!!

TIPS:

Visit local attractions not just big city or tourist areas. You may find a hidden treasure like Grandpa’s Cheese Barn!
Take in a local minor league or college sporting event. Prices and crowds are reasonable.
If you do visit popular tourist spots, plan ahead by knowing the hours, where to park and featured exhibits.
Be flexible and relax enough to enjoy your current situation. Plans change and make sure you are able to roll with the punches and not let the little things spoil your good times!

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