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Snapshot Chronicles Roadtrip

Family travel through a slightly twisted lens. Sense of humor required. Shoes optional.

Mashatu – Cheetahs

December 1, 2009 by Susan Getgood

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Saturday September 19, 2009 AM

We never did find a tiger, but five cheetahs was a more than respectable substitute.

The bush is full of little stories, each playing out in a tableau that virtually ignores the presence of humans in four-wheel drive vehicles. On this morning, we watched hyena and cheetah in a dance probably as old as time.

First, we saw three cheetah brothers, largely ignoring the hyena nearby but responding to the distant drum of horses.

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Then we saw a young male and his mother being tracked by a single hyena. Needless to say, the hyena didn’t press the issue.

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Full set of photos from the day on Flickr.

Filed Under: Africa, Botswana, Mashatu Tagged With: cheetah, hyena

Mashatu – The Wild Dogs

November 28, 2009 by Susan Getgood

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Friday September 18 2009 Evening

We were very lucky to see the Wild Dogs of Mashatu. They had denned in Mashatu, but shortly before we arrived, the pack had gone south into South Africa.

In these photos, they are playing in the mostly dry stream bed of the Limpopo River.

It was particularly interesting for me as a breeder to observe the wild dogs. So much of their behavior is, not surprisingly, similar to the behavior of my dogs.

Other photos from the evening drive:

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Warthog

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Rock dassie

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Quelea

Filed Under: Africa, Botswana, Mashatu

Mashatu – Elvis, Aaron & the tigers

November 26, 2009 by Susan Getgood

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Elvis

Mashatu would be a wondrous experience under any circumstances, but without a doubt, it is the people that make it so very, very special. While I am sure that all the rangers and trackers are excellent, because everything about Mashatu was, we considered ourselves very lucky to have Elvis as our ranger and Aaron, our tracker.

And not just because they knew their stuff, cold, which they did. Each drive exceeded the last, to the point where my brother joked to Elvis that he fully expected to see the (rarely seen)  Honey Badger on the next drive.

It worked so well because not only did they get the jokes, they jumped right in themselves.

And there were more than a few jokes. Doug, Mum and I tend to “situational” humor, and so, it turned out, did our safari companions Michael and Gary. The jokes (mostly made by us at our own expense) flew pretty fast and furious.

I will never forget when we saw the aardwolf, Aaron commented that it was too bad there was a branch in front of its face, but if someone would hold the spotlight, he’d hop down and move it. Gary, bless his heart, immediately  piped up that he would… then realized it was a joke and laughed as heartily (but quietly) as the rest of us.

Which brings me to the tigers.

There are no tigers in Africa. Except in zoos. But we figured that since Elvis and Aaron had exceeded expectations at every turn, they’d be able to do the impossible and find us one.  I started it, after chatting with Mark Hardon on the Ivory Drive about tiger conservation efforts in South Africa, but it soon became a running joke. As we started each drive,  we felt confident we’d finally spot the Tiger of Mashatu.

Next time, I guess…

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Aaron

Filed Under: Africa, Botswana, Mashatu, Safari

Mashatu – The Ivory Drive

November 24, 2009 by Susan Getgood

img_6299Friday September 18, 2009

The elephant research project at Mashatu is world-renowned, and the Ivory Drive gives Mashatu guests a flavor of their painstaking yet rewarding work. Jeanetta Selier, the principal researcher on the  project, usually leads the Ivory Drive but unfortunately, she was away during our visit so we were accompanied by her associate Mark Hardon.

Mark did a noble job, even though the elephants weren’t “cooperating.” Our goal for the morning was to track an elephant named Agatha, but we just couldn’t find her.

Luckily, though, another large and well established herd  was nearby, and the matriarch Hestelle let the herd come fairly close to us. Mum has an excellent description of the drive over on Mashatutiger.com, including a brief and amusing incident when a young elephant got so wrapped up in flirting with the impalas that he failed to notice that the herd had moved away. You’ve never seen an elephant move as fast (and as loudly) as that baby trying to get back to his momma.

img_6345 Another highlight of the morning was a young leopard in a tree, who attracted the attention of some male baboon intent on protecting their territory from an interloper.

Some of my favorite shots from the morning.

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Hestelle

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More photos from the morning on Flickr.

Filed Under: Africa, Botswana, Mashatu

Mashatu – Land of Giants

November 21, 2009 by Susan Getgood

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Thursday September 17, 2009

Our day started very very early. We caught a 6:30 flight to Polokwane, South Africa and then transferred by road, about 2 hours, to the Botswana border. Mum’s friend Afke, who runs the webcam at Pete’s Pond, met us there. After clearing customs and immigration, we continued on to Mashatu Main Camp, now in the capable hands of Elvis and Aaron, the ranger and tracker who would be our hosts and guides for the next three days.

We arrived at Mashatu around noon.  Our first game drive would start later that afternoon, but there was no shortage of interesting wildlife right around the camp, including this bushbuck, who seemed to be a permanent resident, and all sorts of birds and lizards.

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photographed from our room

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just outside our door

Around 3pm. we reconvened on the terrace for a light snack, and met the fellow guests who would be joining us on the game drives, Michael and Gary, Aussie expats living in Hong Kong. As Mum relates in her Mashatutiger.com post, we all hit it off tremendously, which really added to the experience for everyone.

Selected Photos from the Drive
(Full photo set from the day)

Elvis and Aaron really set the bar high on our first drive. Everything was amazing, from the first impala to the setting sun. A real highlight, though, was the rare aardwolf.

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Return to camp, dinner in the boma (highlight, the  choral performance by the kitchen and wait staff) and then off to bed.  One important note: your ranger accompanies you back to your cabin, and once “tucked in” for the night, you are requested to remain in your room. The information packet for guests clearly states:

Please do not leave the confines of your room after you have been walked back after dinner.  The wall around the camp is not totally impermeable to some of the larger predators, which may enter once everybody has retired and all is quiet.  There is a fog horn in your room which may be used during a night time emergency to summon the night watchman.  Please be advised that an animal on your terrace, or roof, does not constitute an emergency.  An animal inside your room does.



One of the things that sets Mashatu apart is its integration of active research programs into the tourism program on the Ivory and Predator Drives. The next morning, we were set to learn a bit more about the elephant research on the Ivory Drive.

Filed Under: Africa, Botswana, Mashatu, Safari

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